Critical Discourse Analysis on TV Advertisements for Beauty Products

This research examines TV advertisements for beauty products on local TV from the perspective of Critical Discourse Analysis. This research mainly focuses on the use of language in beauty advertisements and the strategies used by advertisers to manipulate and influence their customers. This analysis is based on Fairclough's three-dimensional framework, which shows how the ideology of “beauty” is produced and reproduced through advertisements on TV. Qualitative research was conducted on beauty product advertisements from ten TV advertisements for beauty products in 2019. The advertisements taken and analyzed were advertisements for facial beauty products from various brands and types. The findings suggest that advertisers use a variety of strategies to manipulate women. Advertising language is used to control people's thoughts. The better the words the advertisers used to manipulate the viewers, the better reaction that they will get from the viewers. This research shows advertisers are not only promoting their products but highlighting society's standards of beauty and cultural values into the viewers’ lifestyle and how the TV advertisements have shaped the beauty ideology of social practice in Indonesia.


INTRODUCTION
Beauty products are the major expenses for most women in the world. Beauty product manufacturers design advertisements to change women's approach towards beauty products, encouraging them to buy more products. Many advertisers try to shape this approach by encouraging women to feel dissatisfied with their appearance. Across all kinds of media formats, from television to the internet to print, beauty product advertisements bombard consumers every day. Every advertisement seeks to convince a potential buyer of the value of the product or even its need for the buyer's welfare and self-image. These techniques, sometimes manipulative, affect more than the consumer's wallet where it will influence their self-concept.
Jean Kilbourne (2000), in her book, Can't Buy My Love, explains that as spending on advertising for beauty products increases, so does the purchase of women's beauty products. It is because women feel pressured to meet the ideal of beauty standards, beauty product advertisements that offer women the opportunity to meet those standards can be very effective, encouraging more purchases of beauty products. Perhaps most prominently, beauty product advertisements seek to entice customers by presenting an image of the ideal human body; perhaps the "new and better" image consumers will get after using the product. Kilbourne (2000) also states that "people are rarely ugly, overweight, poor, struggling or disabled, either physically or mentally" in beauty advertisements. By presenting these perfect images, beauty product advertisements make consumers feel like their bodies are missing something. In addition to the ideal body, some advertisements present viewers with images of sexuality, love, self-esteem, or popularity, implying that this positive result comes from using the advertised product.
Beauty product advertisements can leave women feeling dissatisfied with their appearance. Women expressed more dissatisfaction with their appearance after watching an advertisement. The advertisers can benefit from this dissatisfaction when they sell their beauty products designed to make women look better. Then, some beauty product companies can cause women to feel insecure and then offer their products as a solution to insecurities.
Beauty product advertisements often use retouched images to make models appear more perfect than they are. Retouching images in beauty product advertisements can cause women to develop unrealistic beauty standards that no one, not even a model, can truly live up to. This increased beauty fixation can encourage women to buy more beauty products.
Advertisements for beauty products usually do not present scientific information about their products except to show scientific studies that have "proven" the benefits of the product. However, advertisements for beauty products can provide women with information about the products available. Kilbourne (2000) emphasizes that advertising also increases the overall market for the product class because women are more likely to buy a product when they see an advertisement for that product. For example, a woman who sees a mascara advertisement may not buy a particular brand of mascara, but she will still be more likely to buy mascara, even though it may not be from the advertisement she saw before. Cook (2001) explains that advertisements inform, persuade, remind, influence, and possibly change opinions, emotions, and attitudes. In other words, the argument is that advertising doesn't just sell products but changes society and makes people buy things they do not want or need. He also felt that advertisements did indeed provide warnings or information to people. Hence, advertising can help create awareness, build identity, and attitude.
The meaning of "discourse" has a strong relationship between linguistic studies and social factors and contains not only words, both written and spoken, or texts, but about an obsession for strong relationships to link language and social ideological strength (Li Xia & Hamuddin, 2019). According to Van Dijk (Bulan & Kasman, 2018), critical discourse analysis does not only look at the level of words, phrases, clauses, and sentences but looks more at elements outside the discourse itself. Critical discourse analysis is a general approach in analyzing written and spoken texts, ranging from critical linguistics to critical semiotics, and can generally be seen from the sociopolitical studies that are studied through language, discourse, and communication. Furthermore, a journal article "Reviewing Critical Discourse Analysis (CDA) Studies: Ideas from Chinese Scholars" (Li Xia & Hamuddin, 2019) explains that in Critical Discourse Analysis (CDA), criticality must be understood in addition to discourse as it is connected to ideology. Critical Discourse Analysis interprets dialogue as an ideology because it is used to characterize the system of attention, seen from the language used by groups and individuals in passing through filters in information filtering, and understanding the meaning of some conversations with broad ideologies. Ideology is a discourse that is seen as an ideological practice or a reflection of a particular ideology. Furthermore, discourse and mass media are two things that support each other. If the existence of discourse is very dependent on the mass media that surrounds it, then the mass media will be very dependent on the audience or its users. (Putra & Triyono, 2018). Fairclough in Alduhaim (2019) suggested a threedimensional model for CDA, in which he distinguishes between three interrelated analytical processes. The incorporation of Fairclough's three analytical procedures aims to highlight the linguistic choices of each president to understand the extent to which they affect the audience. 1). Text: analysis of linguistic characteristics of the text, a combination of clauses, grammar, and vocabulary that are arranged in one document. 2). Discourse practice: analyzing the way text is produced, distributed, interpreted, and adapted. 3. Social practice: assesses the context (situational, institutional, or community level).
This research is follow-up research from "Beauty Product Advertisements: A Critical Discourse Analysis" (Kaur, Arumugam, & Yunus, 2013). They show how the ideology of "beauty" is produced and reproduced through advertisements in popular local Malaysian women's magazines. The research was conducted on beauty product advertisements in two popular local women's magazines in Malaysia, Cleo and Women's Weekly. The findings suggest that advertisers use a variety of strategies to manipulate women. Advertisers promote the ideal lifestyle and manipulate readers to some extent into believing that whatever is being advertised is indeed true. This study reveals how the ideology of beauty is constructed and reconstructed through magazines with stereotypes of how beauty products are synonymous with a better life. Advertising language is used to control people's thoughts. So, people in power (advertisers) use language as a means of exercising control over others. Similar to previous research, this research will also try to find the ideology of "beauty" which is produced and reproduced through advertisements on television in Indonesia.
Besides the research that this research use as follow-up research, several relevant studies are being used as references for this research. There is a similar CDA research that has been conducted in Indonesia with focusing on advertisement and women. The title of the research is "A Critical Discourse Analysis on Shopee 12.12 Birthday Sale Advertisement" (Feramayasari & Wiedarti, 2020). They also used a TV advertisement for their research, however, the type of TV advertisement is different. This research used TV advertisements for beauty products, meanwhile, they were using a TV advertisement for an online shopping application. They were using the Feminist Stylist Approach (FSA) by Sara Mills, this research uses the Critical Discourse Analysis framework by Fairclough. Another research that has been conducted in Indonesia is "Ideology and Rhetoric: Framing Metrotv News in The Lapindo Mudflow Tragedy" (Fauzan, 2018). Instead of using TV advertisements, the researcher used news broadcast clips in conducting the research. This research used the theory of CDA by Fairclough and also analyzed how the news broadcast could affect the society with how they delivered the news which showed some bias from the different political ideology. The last relevant study is "Critical Discourse Analysis of Advertising: Implications for Language Teacher Education" (Turhan, 2017). The research is a CDA research and used a TV Advertisement for a Bank in Turkey. The research is focused on how the Bank TV advertisement informs people about the existence of a Teacher Academy Foundation which is supported by the Bank. Since the TV Advertisement focuses on the Teacher Academy Foundation, so the researcher interviewed three teachers. In this research, instead of using interviews, this research used the data from a survey on how the consumers of the beauty products used the product due by the TV advertisements and how the TV advertisements affected the consumers to buy their products.
Advertising is important, but not much research is done in local contexts from a CDA or Critical Discourse Analysis perspective. Thus, there is indeed a need for research to investigate the use of language and other semiotic modalities in advertisements for beauty products. Findings from these research efforts can further contribute to the field of advertising as well as language and society. This research will answer the following research questions: 1) What are the linguistic features used in beauty product advertisements? 2) What are the discursive techniques used in beauty product advertisements to manipulate women?

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
The theoretical framework used in this research is the Critical Discourse Analysis framework (Fairclough, 2001). Advertising is seen as a media discourse because it involves language and social processes. Hence this framework is used to show the relationship between the nature of social practice and the properties of the language "text".
A qualitative design was adopted for this study. A qualitative study is appropriate in this study which aims to analyze how discourse in advertising involves the construction of meaning according to the viewer. The advertisements for beauty products analyzed are advertisements in Bahasa Indonesia on local television. Therefore, for descriptive analysis, qualitative analysis is more appropriate than quantitative analysis. Purposive sampling was conducted because this study was only to investigate beauty product advertisements.
Data were collected from ten TV advertisements for beauty products in 2019. The advertisements taken and analyzed were advertisements for facial beauty products from various brands and types. Each advertisement is between 15 seconds and 30 seconds long.

Data analysis is based on Fairclough's (2001) Critical Discourse Analysis framework.
Hence this framework is used to show the relationship between the nature of social practice and the properties of the language "text". The three-dimensional framework includes the concept of discourse as text (micro-level), discourse practice (meso-level), and sociocultural practice (macro-level). Its purpose is to explore the relationship between language, ideology, and power, and to find out how advertisers convince women to buy their products. Thus, this study focuses on analyzing the linguistic features of beauty product advertisements on television in Indonesia and highlights how the language used tends to manipulate women's beliefs based on advertising content.

FINDINGS
Based on data analysis from advertisements, it can be concluded that advertisers use various linguistic tools such as mentioning directly, positive vocabulary, headlines, and catchy slogans to attract women's attention. In this research, the vocabulary used in beauty product advertisements is ideologically contested. The advertisements illustrate how beautiful a woman is with certain features. The advertisements broadcast on TV show how a person must look beautiful to be accepted as part of the ideal woman. The use of mentioning directly or the pronoun "you" carries a certain message that the customer is of utmost importance. Thus consumers can be directly influenced by the product. Intertextuality also occurs in advertising when the advertiser uses words from another discourse to attract viewers like the words of science. Hence another way to attract customers is the use of technical words. The technical words in the advertisement help convince the audience that the product has value. Technical vocabulary reflects expertise which is a source of strength. Besides, the use of scientific information in beauty product advertisements reflects authority. Scientific information or words can be a way of conveying expertise, which in other words reflects strength.
In this research, advertisers highlight how their product is a solution to women's problems. Also, the use of well-known local or international models or celebrities is another technique of manipulating women. The ideology of power is portrayed by celebrities in advertisements. These celebrities seem to reflect power over others and success. Every woman wants to look beautiful and attractive as reflected in the video advertisement on TV. Testimonies by local and international celebrities help support a product. Positive self-representation is also a technique used to attract consumers to show them how they can benefit from the product. Most of the advertisements are open with direct benefit to the audience as evidenced by the findings of this study.
Based on data analysis, it can be summarized that the most obvious themes in advertisements are ideal appearance or the search for women. Advertisers use a variety of strategies to manipulate women into buying their products. Their positive selfrepresentation is proven when they claim their product provides benefits. Advertisers have the means to promote ideal beauty standards. Women, the main consumers of beauty products, are consciously or unconsciously persuaded to buy the advertised products. So it doesn't seem easy to ignore the persuasive nature of advertising. They form an idea of what it means to be a woman in the society. Fill (2002) believes that advertising can influence consumers to buy products that they have never used before. They urge women to take care of their appearance by recommending products that can help achieve the perfect skin tone.

DISCUSSION
The analysis is presented at the textual (micro), discursive (meso) and social (macro) levels based on Fairclough's (2001) CDA framework.

Textual Analysis
The textual analysis deals with research question 1 regarding linguistic features in the advertisement being analyzed. At this level of analysis linguistic features such as vocabulary, syntax, and rhetorical tools used in advertising are discussed. In this research, there are many direct purposes uses in advertising for ideological and practical reasons. The use of both personal and possessive personal pronouns such as "you" and "yours" seeks to direct the viewers directly and personally. When people speak individually rather than as part of a mass audience, it is perceived as being highly valued. The handling of this person individually is referred to as 'synthetic personalization' (Fairclough, 1989). Based on a total of ten beauty product advertisements analyzed, three of them have used mentioning directly. As shown below: a. Tampilkan kulit cerahmu (Show your fair skin) [Ponds, Facial Foam] b. Apapun warna kulitmu (Whatever the tone of your skin) [Wardah, Foundation] c. Support kulit mudamu (Support your young skin) [Emina, Moisturizing Cream] Besides, advertising also needs to convince viewers to buy or take certain actions. So advertising usually uses commands. The following are examples of imperatives used in advertisements analyzed in this study.
In advertisements, some questions are charged to viewers to create a personal connection by simulating informal conversations with the audience to engage them rather than simply conveying product information. The advertisements in this study also contain a question such as: Another type of strategy for simulating a conversational style is the use of disjunctive syntax, which is sentences without a verb or subject. These sentences consist of only one or two grammar items. An example of an advertisement in this study is shown in the table below. Vocabulary is a means for advertisers to express ideological opinions about people and events. Adjectives are related to advertising because they convey positive or negative affective meanings (Delin, 2000). The affective meaning will display the viewer's positive or negative evaluation of an item being displayed. Advertisements in this study contain adjectives with positive and negative connotations. Positive adjectives are related to the quality of the product whereas negative adjectives are related to problems that existed before using the product or due to not using problems. Below are examples of adjectives used in beauty product advertisements. The use of pronouns in advertisements helps create a friendly atmosphere to convince the audience. Women will easily accept a product if a good friend recommends it. Hence an advertisement that seems to talk to friends brings the audience closer. In the beauty advertisement in this study, it was found that the most commonly used pronouns are "you" and "we". The use of first and second-person pronouns seems to indicate as if the advertiser is making a sincere and honest promise. The use of personal pronouns forms a certain type of relationship between the advertiser and the audience. For example, the pronoun "we" is considered an authority and implies strength while "you" reflects personal involvement when the viewers are dealt with head-on. Besides, the use of "we" does reflect the feelings of "us" versus "them". Examples of pronouns in beauty product advertisements in this study are: Advertisers also use technical and scientific-sounding words to attract viewers. By using such words they hope to reflect an image of professionalism and technological progress. To impress consumers, advertisers use scientific words and information to create the impression that they are up to date with technology. The following is an excerpt from the advertisement in this study. All these advertisements arouse passion and build an image of the ideal beauty for women. In some advertisements, the product has certain attributes that women would like to have for themselves e.g. 'mengangkat sel kulit mati (removes dead skin cells); samarkan noda (disguise blemishes); paling tahan lama (most durable); transfer proof; wajah cerah merata (evenly bright face); mencerahkan kulit (brightens skin).' These advertisements create the wrong impression that if women buy this beauty product they will have this feature with the help of this product. Thus the media are misleading women. Advertising can influence women and shape their behavior by creating delusions.

Discourse Practice Analysis
This level of analysis involves studying the production and consumption of texts, with a focus on how power relations are enforced. In this study, advertisers use various strategies in their discourse to attract consumers. The table below summarizes the strategies used. The main audience for advertised beauty products is women. Advertisers manipulate women by providing facts about their beauty products. For example, "kini hadir dalam 18 warna lengkap (now comes in 18 complete colors)".
Headlines also play a role in attracting women's attention. Magazine headlines cover a variety of beautiful themes. For example, in this study, the headlines in advertisements were "Stay active, be beautiful", "Next level of bright skin", "Support kulit mudamu, bersinar kapan aja, dimana aja (Support your young skin, shine anytime, anywhere)", "Wardah Exclusive Liquid Foundation untuk berbagai jenis skintone (Wardah Exclusive Liquid Foundation for various types of skin tones)." Language in headlines like this tends to be persuasive.
Advertisers also use language in a way that relates their power over beauty to overcome dissatisfaction. They show the viewers that they have something more than others. This is a case of 'us' versus 'them'. In the advertisements analyzed in this study, for example in the Y.O.U. advertisement, Lip Cream, "Now comes in 18 complete colors".
The use of positive self-representation is evident when advertisers claim their product provides benefits. The opinion is that their product is better than others. By articulating the benefits of their product, the advertiser is a manufacturing deal.

Social Practices Analysis
This section describes the broad societal currents that influence advertising. This is also concerned with intertextual understanding which helps to understand the broad societal currents that affect the text being studied. This includes views on beauty by people around the world and in particular the position of Indonesian women in this practice. Beauty myths originate from the past where women then also used various traditional products to enhance their appearance. For example, women in the past painted their faces using mud, clay, plants, leaves, flowers, and so on. In today's world, beauty and physical attractiveness are emphasized as being desired and admired. Beauty products are used by women to enhance their physical appearance to look beautiful. Issues concerning women today such as having smooth skin, a slim body, fair skin, and a beautiful appearance have made the beauty products industry one of the fastest-growing industries. Women today are so obsessed with looking good and willing to try hard to achieve their desires. Beauty product advertisements can have control or power over consumers. Some women are sometimes misled into believing what is being advertised is true. Society seems to value fair, slim, and attractive women more than research shows. Powerful people (beauty product advertisers) use their power through approval building.
To find out how TV advertisement could affect social practice, we need to know what the consumer of the products thinks about the advertisement. The researcher surveyed women who are living in Indonesia on how they choose beauty products for themselves. This survey has 65 participants.

T he B r a nds us e d by t he P a r t i c i pa nt s
The data above show the brands of the beauty product that have been chosen by the participants. Since the product is beauty products so the participants may choose more than one brand since people might use different brands for their skincare and make-up, and so on. People who chose Wardah are 55 people (85,9%). Maybelline is 48 people (75%). Emina is 38 people (59,4%). Ponds are 34 (53,1%). Garnier is 32 people (50%). La Tulipe is 17 people (26,6%). Ovale are 13 people (20.3%). Fair and Lovely are 13 people (20.3%). Y.O.U. is 7 people (10,9%). And none for Poise. Figure: 2 The percentage of the reasons from the participants in choosing the beauty products After knowing the brands they choose, then finding out the reasons why they choose the beauty products. The data above shows that the participants mostly choose a product after reading reviews (47 people or 73,4%) and after receiving recommendations (38 people or 59,4%). The advertisement comes next for 25 people with 39,1%, then because of the brand or the brand image for 20 people or 31,3%, and because of the advertisement model is only 5 people or 7,8%. The researcher put others there to know the reasons if they cannot find the reasons from the options or if they have different reasons from the options, and 10 people or 15,6% choose this option. The people who choose this gave various reasons, one of them said, "because it has Halal certification from MUI, has BPOM certification, and has affordable prices", someone also said, "in deciding to use a product, I will read the ingredient first because I have a very sensitive skin" and some people say a similar thing, they choose it carefully because they have sensitive skin. Although only 25 people out of 65 participants or 39,1% choose an advertisement, how the brand's image has been built is started from advertisement, same from people who give the recommendation and reviews, they must have seen the advertisement first to know the product they want to use. It can be seen from the reasons from others, people know that a product has Halal certification because the advertiser put it on their advertisement. The data above show that most participants or 41 people (64,1%) were impressed by the technical and scientific words. Then 33 people or 51,6% impressed by the emotive words. Next is scientific evidence with 29 people or 45,3%. Then 10 people or 15,6% choose direct mentioning, and only 4 people choose the advertisement model. Also, there are 5 people or 7,7% who choose others, they say that when the advertisement explains that the product will be good for some type of skins and will fulfill the needs of the skin.
From the result of the survey, it can be seen that advertisement is really important to give information about the product to the public. The advertisement is also important in building an image for the brands. When the brands already have a good reputation, people will trust every product they released. From the data of the interesting thing of an advertisement, people think technical and scientific words as the one that impressed them the most, as well as emotive words, these two is related to the ingredients and the form of the products. After the two is scientific evidence. People tend to believe someone else experiences before they decide to choose a product to make sure that the product is safe and is good for their skin. These three options with the most votes are using the creativity of the advertisers using the words to manipulate the viewers. The

T he P a r t i c i pa nt s Fi nd t he M o s t I nt e r e s t i ng f r o m A n A dv e r t i s e me nt
better the words they used, the better reaction that they will get from the viewers. This is also proving that the advertisement can change society in viewing and setting a standard for someone's beauty.
From the data above, it shows that intertextuality occurs in advertising when the advertiser tries to attract viewers by using words of science or research when advertising beauty products. Through advertising, identity is also created. Advertising makes women feel that to be part of "in the group" rather than "outside the group" they have to buy a product. They will be like celebrities or famous people who look good with the product. It seems to suggest that to be successful one needs to use a product that this famous woman uses. Research shows that people who are attractive have an advantage over people who are less attractive. The idea is that attractive women are more successful in business and personal life. Thus, women are made to feel very concerned about their appearance. They are made to feel that having good looks is very important.
Also, attractive model images in advertisements reduce consumer self-image. But a feeling of relief is also associated with the product being advertised for claiming that the problem can be solved through the consumption of the product. In other words, advertisers arouse feelings of dissatisfaction among consumers themselves as a strategy to stimulate consumers to buy their products to improve their appearance and ultimately be satisfied. Apaolaza-Ibanez in Kaur et al. (2013) claims that cosmetic advertising works by lowering women's self-perceptions and then providing relief from these negative feelings as an emotional benefit through the brand. Hidayah & Milal (2016) also state that the use of models is one of the strategies to stimulate consumers to buy their products by giving a claim that the problem can be solved and the beauty can be gotten through the use of the product. The use of famous actresses and actors is the best way to maintain the producers' power and establish their position in society.
An example of how a TV advertisement can do a social change from the model images in the advertisement is from the research by Feramayasari & Wiedarti (2020) which explained that the Shopee advertisement describes women who want to always look beautiful and attractive, active, independent, and confident. However, since the cultural differences between the model of the advertisement which is a Korean Girl Group BlackPink, and the Indonesian society, it became a problem that led to the protest of the advertisement. From the analysis in their study using the CDA theory by Sara Mills, by analyzing the subject-object and the reader position, they found the problem is not from the Shopee broadcast, but because the TV advertisement appears at primetime hours. At that time, many people watching TV including children, in this case, the role of parents is needed to monitoring what their children watch on the TV.
The language and tone used in the advertisement need to be compatible with the culture of the society. In the CDA research by Turhan (2017), where the interviewees thought that the language accompanied by the background music is used in a narrative style, and the tone of the voice which they described as reassuring, relaxing, calm, and soft. They also believed that the message conveyed with linguistic patterns was the compassion of a teacher because Turkish culture includes emotional aspects. The advertisers need to understand the culture of the society because advertisement and culture have a tight relationship. If the advertisers do something that violates the cultural system in society, it could become controversial, because advertisements, especially TV advertisement, could do a social and cultural change to society.
This research supports the findings of the CDA research by Hidayat et al. (2020) who stated that women must be able to determine and choose beauty products that suit their daily needs. These beauty product advertisements gave messages to them that by using the beauty products, the level of confidence of women would increase, and this triggers the nature of women's dissatisfaction with themselves. Research by Mendrofa (2020) also supported the findings in this research which state that persuasive language changes women's minds and behavior. It affects women's appreciation for their bodies.
The cosmetic product advertisements have the power of society in constructing a woman's standard of beauty that can kill the essential meaning of being a woman. There must be appreciation too from society toward women's natural looks.
This research shows advertisers are not only promoting their products but highlighting society's standards of beauty and cultural values into the viewers' lifestyle. TV advertisements also have shaped the beauty ideology of social practice in Indonesia.

CONCLUSION
Globalization impacts all aspects of our lives. Views of beauty have also evolved. The adage "beauty from within" may no longer be relevant because today's society focuses on outward appearances. It cannot be denied that appearance can influence a woman's social or career success in life. The physical appearance of women is influenced by social judgments. While some may believe that advertising has no significant or no effect on their values, this is far from true. When constantly showing types of images like a slim body, flawless skin, and so on, it becomes normal.
The way advertisers showing only the good things about the products in their advertisements is part of the manipulation. However, they use technical and scientific words, emotive words, and the most important is using scientific evidence to attract and convince the viewers. Moreover, in TV advertisements, they also using background music and the soft-spoken tone of the text to make the viewers more interested in their products. With this creativity, many people are falling to what the advertisement says and starting to use the products. This is part of the social change that TV advertisement does. They change the way society views beauty, that the standard of beauty is from what the advertisement says.
A language is a powerful tool that can shape people. People communicate through language. Advertising on TV like any other media portrays a huge impact on the audience as Fairclough (2002) rightly states that this is due to the complexity of media discourse which presents various ideological processes. In conclusion, advertisers manipulate women into buying a way of life by buying beauty products.